Can i use 3 ohm speakers

Limiting the power the amp can provide can cause sound quality issues which is why the general advice is to leave the amp on the 8 ohm setting. PSM1 said:. Click to expand You get more power due to the fact they are low impedance so it means the power value goes up how all in one systems claim silly powers.

However, to do this the speakers will draw more current from the amp which puts more load on the power supply and can cause it to overheat do not get something for nothing in this world. Hence although lower impedance similar to resistance but different it puts more load on the receiver. To answer the other question having it selected to 4 ohms will not hurt the amp or 6 ohm speakers but will affect sound quality adversely. Hence the general advice is to leave the amp on 8 ohm setting but just take care with the volume i.

BlueWizard Distinguished Member. Keep in mind just because your amp is 4 ohm capable doesn't in any way mean it is optimized for 4 ohms. There would be no logical reason to specifically choose 4 ohm speaker, there is no advantage. It is just nice to know that if you should happen to have 4 ohm speakers the amp is capable of handling them. That seeming increase in power with 4 ohm speakers is something of an illusion.

In reality, amps are voltage devices, the take a low input voltage and amplify it up, and the output feed the higher voltage to the speaker, an as a result of voltage being applied to resistance current flows and power is consumed. In short, amps don't feed power, the feed voltage, and as a result speakers consume power. So the real limit is the voltage limit of the amp. This range of voltage swing on the output of the amp is called Headroom.

In a true w amp, you have substantially more voltage available, which means the amp is far less likely to go into clipping. Simply running a w amp at 4 ohms, thus seeming to have w, does not give you this increase in headroom.

As such while the power it technically real, and seeming advantage is an illusion. Lower impedance on the speakers, as has been said, mean higher current from the amp, which in turn means higher current from the power supply, which in turn means you are more likely to hit the limits of the current and voltage capacity of the power supply.

However, this is not true or practical with a AV Receiver. Meaning that while some channels can deliver w, it is impossible for all channel to deliver w at the same time as that would be beyond the capacity of the power supply.

For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Matching 3 ohms speaker to reciever Hide sidebar Show sidebar. Thread starter Csar09 Start date Nov 27, Csar09 Audiophyte. These are the speakers ratings: every tallboy is 3ohm inside are 2 8-ohm speakers plus 1 ohm tweeter in parallel i guess totaling those 3 ohm , frequency range HzKHz, rated input W and max input W.

The Subwoofer is 8ohm, 35HzHz, rated input Hz. Csar09 said:. But the subwoofer suddenly stopped working, still produced a sound when making a bad contact but no sound comes out of it while conmected to the amplifier. Changed RCA and still the same.

Looks like you have an active i. You sure the subwoofer is still functional? I do agree with TLS guy that it's probably time to get new speakers if you're serious about going to a normal component setup rather than another htib setup You are right, I was thinking sbout it because here in my country there are not that many places that sells speakers to match it with a reciever. Be warned though, that it will take all afternoon to get through all the tuning.

The digital out signal has a frequency range and bit rate by the time it hits the cord. Your reciever then turns that digital information in to an analog audio signal and amplifies that before sending to your speakers.

Oh great. So my DVD player could be a piece of shit too? I have a Panasonic S35S. Well, what happens if you run a pair of those Sony speakers wired in series to the center channel?

To run in series, how do the wires go? Receiver to speaker 1, and speaker 1 to speaker 2? That panny DVD player is fine. Im placing my money on the speakers having crappy dynamic range the ability to play loudly and quitely, clearly or a misconfiguration on the reciever.

Not at all. Dynamic Range looks to be the worst limiting factor, at just under db humans can "hear", on average, up to db. Nonetheless, your DVD player is putting out way more than what you're able to take advantage of with the rest of your system.

I wouldn't buy your DVD player in a component by component, piece by piece, setup. But it would be the last thing I'd replace in your current situation. EDIT: Series would be positive out from the stereo to one speaker, negative from that speaker to the positive of the next and negative from the second speaker back to negative on the amp. Just for testing purposes. Awesome, I will hook up two speakers in series tonight.

I have 5 of them which all appear to be the same speaker 2 fornts, 2 rears and 1 center. D mentioned Monaural Will hooking them up in series somehow prevent some sound from coming through? Thanks a lot for all the help, BTW. I just mean you're only getting one channel's worth of sound to two speakers. It might not be your speakers. I have Paradigm monitors all the way around and the volumes were fine with my old Sony and are fantastic with the new Yamaha HTR I just replaced the Onkyo with.

Just letting you know it might not be a speaker issue and your wife might be right that it was easier to hear with the Sony installed. The other thing you may want to do is set your fronts and center to SMALL and let the sub handle anything with low end.

It may help, but I got tired of fooling with it and just replaced teh receiver. I know you're not in a position to do this, but it's just an FYI before you spend more money without knowing what is causing the problem. Well that's just great. At least it sounded good. I have to buy a stand alone Component Switch now too. I might jsut pack up the Onkyo stuff and try to sell it on the Agora to recover the cost of fixing the Sony and buying a stand alone component switch.

It would be a bitch to ship though. But at least at some point in the future, I could start over and do it right. I hope my diagram is easy enough to understand. You will loose a little sensitivity with the series arrangement. But at least you won't have to worry about your amp hitting current limits. I have the same reciever as you and I too have had a bit of a problem with dialog. It's not that bad though, but I do have the same issue where if I have it turned up loud enough for the voices to sound good, any explosions are way too loud.

The speakers-in-series setup looks like a good option for you. It gets turned up quite loud for hours at a time and hasn't been a problem, although the center has been turned down a couple of dB compared to the other speakers. A speaker is essentially a resistor. Therefore, when a speaker is given a specific ohm rating, then it refers to the resistance offered by the device to the flow of electricity through it. Firstly ,every speaker produces sound on AC, not DC.

That AC is actually provided by the amplifier setup. Secondly, the amplifier runs on DC power. Most amplifiers use AC coupling.